Farm towns like Winchester that produce beef, corn and greens to feed the world are becoming America’s unlikeliest food deserts as traditional grocery stores are forced out of business by fewer shoppers and competition from dollar-store chains. Their exodus has left rural towns worried about how they can hold on to families, businesses and their future if there is nowhere to buy even a banana.
“It’s the story of every small town,” Mr. Coonrod, 35, said. “It’s a domino effect, and it starts with the grocery store.”...